Madeira is a Portuguese island 1,000 km from Lisbon, closer to Africa than Europe. Subtropical climate, water and air temperature change little through the year. December here isn't winter in the continental sense — more like warm autumn.
Weather
| Funchal (south, 0 m) | Santana (north, 400 m) | Pico do Areeiro (1,818 m) | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day | 18-21°C | 15-17°C | 5-10°C |
| Night | 13-16°C | 10-12°C | 0 / -3°C |
| Rainy days | 10-12 | 15-18 | ~12 |
| Ocean temp | 19-20°C | — | — |
Key Madeira rule: north wet, south dry. Atlantic clouds catch on the central mountains. Funchal in the south — almost always sunny, while São Vicente in the north gets rain. Daily plan: if south is wet, drive north (and vice versa). 30 minutes by car changes the weather completely.
Can you swim
Water at 19-20°C — cold but not freezing. For a surfer in a wetsuit — fine. For a casual swim — a quick dip. Pools (Porto Moniz, Doca do Cavacas) — same 19-20°C, unheated. If you go just for the beach, December isn't the best month. For everything else — excellent.
Levadas and hikes
Most popular levadas are open. Trail condition depends on the week's rainfall. Usually open:
- Levada do Rei — laurel forest, waterfall. Best in rain because sheltered by the canopy.
- Levada do Caldeirão Verde — 13 km, 100 m waterfall. Mighty after rain.
- Levada das 25 Fontes — most touristy, but empty in December.
- Vereda do Areeiro → Pico Ruivo (3 peaks) — the most famous. Caution: in winter check the forecast — in cloud you see nothing. Snow happens.
Prices
| December (low season) | July (high season) | |
|---|---|---|
| Flight from London/Lisbon (1 pax) | €80-200 | €200-450 |
| 3* hotel in Funchal/night | €50-80 | €90-130 |
| Car rental/day | €18-25 | €35-50 |
| Dinner with wine | €20-30 | €25-35 |
30-40% savings vs summer. The only peak in December is 31 December, when Funchal hotels double their rates because of the fireworks.
New Year's fireworks
Funchal was once in the Guinness Book of Records for the largest fireworks show in the world. Lasts 8 minutes, visible from all points around the bay. Best viewpoints: Pico dos Barcelos (free, book parking ahead), cruise ships docked in the harbour (paid), hotel terraces. People come to Funchal a week ahead — book everything 3-6 months in advance.
What to do besides hikes
- Funchal cable car → Monte → wicker basket sledge down the asphalt. Touristy, but worth doing once.
- Cabo Girão — glass skywalk on a 580 m sea cliff.
- Sé do Funchal and the old town — great for a rainy day.
- Wine tastings — Madeira wine is famous, all wineries open in December.
- Whales and dolphins — tours run year-round, sperm whales often seen in December.
- Porto Santo — neighbour island with a 9 km sandy beach. Ferry 2.5 hrs. Cheap in December, but too cold to swim.
What to pack
- Waterproof shell (Gore-Tex or similar)
- Light puffy / fleece for mountains
- Hiking boots + sneakers
- Hat + gloves (for Pico do Areeiro sunrise)
- Swimsuit (warm day + spa)
- Umbrella (for the city — useless in the mountains)
Is December worth it
Yes if: you want hikes, levadas, nature, low prices, no crowds. If you want a beach holiday — summer is better. December is levada season because they're full and waterfalls are powerful. Downsides — rain and sunset at 5:30 pm shorten the day.